Acquisition of textiles during the contract period
The textiles industry is chemical intensive. Chemicals are used throughout the manufacturing process, from process chemicals for fibre production, bleaching, dyeing, etc. to chemicals added to the finished product to give it certain properties such as flame retardant treatment and impregnation.
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| Coloring agents and pigments | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The purpose of the requirement is to limit environmentally and health-hazardous dyes and pigments in textiles. Criterion text In textiles acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the dyes and pigments listed in the table below shall not be present in levels above 50 mg/kg textile for each individual substance.
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| Flame retardants in textiles where flame retardant function are requested | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information By using the requirement, environmentally and health-hazardous flame retardants in textiles are limited. Criterion text In textiles with flame retardant function acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the substances listed in the table below shall not be present in levels above 5 mg/kg textile.
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| Water repellent and waterproof function in textiles where such a function is required | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Textiles with water-repellent or waterproof function shall not be treated with environmentally and health-hazardous compounds on the candidate list but can be treated with other compounds to achieve their function. Criterion text In textiles with water-repellent or waterproof function acquired by the supplier during the contract period, perfluorinated substances or cyclic siloxanes on the current candidate list (Article 59 of Regulation (EC) 1907/2006 on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)) shall not be included in levels above 100 mg/kg textile. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Formaldehyde | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Formaldehyde has health-hazardous properties such as toxic, sensitizing, can cause genetic defects and can cause cancer. The requirement limits the content of formaldehyde emitted from textiles. Criterion text In textiles acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the content of free or (partly) hydrolysed formaldehyde (CAS 50-00-0) shall not be present in levels above 75 ppm (75 mg/kg). | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Formaldehyde | Advanced | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Formaldehyde has health-hazardous properties such as toxic, sensitizing, can cause genetic defects and can cause cancer. The requirement limits the content of formaldehyde emitted from textiles. Criterion text In textiles acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the content of free or (partly) hydrolysed formaldehyde (CAS 50-00-0) shall not be present in levels above 20 ppm (20 mg/kg). Exception Protective clothing covered by Regulation (EU) 2016/425 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is exempt from the requirement. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Softening agents in coatings and printing | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The purpose of the requirement is to limit environmentally and health-hazardous substances in coatings and prints on textiles. Criterion text For textiles with a coating, surface layer and/or printing, acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the sum of the substances in the table below shall not exceed 0.1 weight percent (1000 mg/kg textile).
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| Limitation of biocidal products (antimicrobial function) | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Textiles treated with biocidal products may contain substances that are environmentally and health hazardous. With this requirement biocidal treated articles are avoided. Criterion text Textiles acquired by the supplier during the contract shall not be treated with biocidal products1,2. Exception
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| Textilies with dirt and oil repellent function where such a function is required | Advanced | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Dirt and oil repellent textiles can be treated with environmentally and health-hazardous perfluorinated substances, which are limited by the requirement. Criterion text In textiles with water-repellent or waterproof function acquired by the supplier during the contract period, the substances listed in the table should not be present in levels above the stated limit value in the table below.
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| Content of Substances of Very High Concern (the Candidate List) | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information This contract term minimizes content of the environmentally and health-hazardous chemicals listed on the candidate list in the EU chemicals legislation Reach. Criterion text Textiles acquired by the supplier during the contract period shall not contain substances included on the current candidate list (Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)) in levels above 0.1 weight percent (1000 mg/kg) per substance. 0.1 weight percent refers to each individual part of a product 1.
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| Handling of worn-out textiles | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information A more circular handling of textiles also means that worn-out textiles are handled in the best way. Criterion text The supplier should during the contract period be able to report information about worn-out textiles, acquired during the contract period.
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| Requirements under the ILO core conventions | Core | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The contract terms on the basic level aim to ensure that the supplier has effective risk management regarding workers' rights under the ILO core conventions in its own operation as well as in the supply chain regarding subcontractors who are directly involved in the performance of the contract. Criterion text 1. The supplier's obligation Throughout the entire contract period, the supplier shall apply the contract terms under item 1-4. The contract shall be fulfilled in accordance with the following terms regarding workers’ rights:
The terms regarding workers’ rights are called “the Terms” hereafter. In the event of the core conventions of the ILO are in conflict with national law, the supplier shall take reasonable measures to ensure compliancy with the international regulations. The obligations concerns workers when they perform work within the frame of the contract. The supplier shall, according to item 2, ensure that the Terms are fulfilled by hired subcontractors that directly contribute to the performance of the contract, regardless of the number of intermediaries. In addition, the supplier shall ensure that these subcontractors participate in the follow-up, The obligations concerns work carried out under such conditions where Swedish labour law is not applicable. 2. Policies and routines To fulfil the obligations under item 1, the supplier shall take measures to prevent and manage any deviations from the Terms according to item 2.1-2.6 below. The measures shall be documented and applied throughout the entire contract period in their own operation and the operation of any subcontractors who directly contribute to the performance of the contract, regardless of the number of intermediaries. At the start of the contract the supplier shall have: 2.1 adopted a commonly accessible policy, adopted by the highest management including a commitment to respect the Terms, 2.2. adopted routines to convey their commitment to respect the Terms in their own operation and in the supply chain, 2.3 appointed a manager at the highest management level, responsible for compliance with the Terms, 2.4 adopted routines to regularly carry out risk analyses, i.e. to identify and prioritise current and potential risks of deviation from the Terms, as well as mapping the supply chain with special regard to high risk operations, 2.5 adopted routines for regular follow-up of the Terms compliance, and 2.6 adopted routines to immediate action to prevent and limit deviations from the Terms, and to make amendments to identified deviations. The measures shall be taken in accordance with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, or the equivalent. 3. Follow-up [The contracting authority] has the right to follow-up that the supplier fulfils its obligations. The follow-up may be carried out in different steps; self-assessment and audit. 3.1 Self-assessment 3.2 Audit 4. Management of deficiencies If the supplier does not participate in follow-up or if there are deficiencies in the documentation to be provided under item 3, a correction shall be made within the time determined by [the contracting authority]. In case of deficiencies in compliance to the Terms, the supplier shall amend this according to a schedule and action plan, developed by the supplier, and to be approved by [the contracting authority]. The schedule and action plan are to be developed within the time period decided by [the contracting authority] and must be proportionate to the nature of the deficiencies and clearly describe how these are to be remedied within the established schedule. [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect if the supplier do not make amendments within the established period or do not remedy deficiencies within the established [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect in the case of severe deviations from the Terms. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sustainable supply chains | Advanced | Special contract terms | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The terms regarding sustainable supply chains aim to ensure that the supplier has efficient risk management in their own operation and in the supply chain, covering the areas human rights, labour rights, environmental protection and anti-corruption. Criterion text 1. The supplier’s obligation Throughout the entire contract period, the supplier shall apply the contract terms under item 1-4. The contract shall be fulfilled in accordance with the following terms regarding human rights, workers’ rights, environmental protection, and anti-corruption (sustainable supply chains):
The terms regarding sustainable supply chains are called “the Terms” hereafter. When international regulations prescribe a stronger protection for the individual than the national legislation, the supplier shall take reasonable measures to ensure compliancy with the international regulations. The obligations concerns all operations connected to the performance of the contract. The supplier shall, according to item 2, ensure that the Terms are fulfilled by hired subcontractors in all parts of the supply chain. In addition, the supplier shall ensure that these subcontractors participate in the follow-up, according to item 3. 2. Policies and routines To fulfil the obligations under item 1, the supplier shall take measures to prevent andmanage any deviations from the Terms according to item 2.1-2.6 below. The measures shall be documented and applied concurrently throughout the entire contract period in their own operation as well as in the operation of any subcontractors in all parts of the supply chain. At the start of the contract the supplier shall have: 2.1 adopted a commonly accessible policy, adopted by the highest management including a commitment to respect the Terms, 2.2. adopted routines to convey their commitment to respect the Terms in their own operation and in the supply chain, 2.3 appointed a manager at the highest management level, responsible for compliance with the Terms, 2.4 adopted routines to regularly carry out risk analyses, i.e. to identify and prioritise current and potential risks of deviation from the Terms, as well as mapping the supply chain with special regard to high risk operations, 2.5 adopted routines for regular follow-up of the Terms compliance, and 2.6 adopted routines to immediate action to prevent and limit deviations from the Terms, and to make amendments to identified deviations. The measures shall be taken in accordance with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, or the equivalent. 3. Follow-up [The contracting authority] has the right to follow-up that the supplier fulfils its obligations. The follow-up may be carried out in different steps; self-assessment and audit. 3.1 Self-assessment 3.2 Audit 4. Management of deficiencies If the supplier does not participate in follow-up or if there are deficiencies in the documentation to be provided under item 3, a correction shall be made within the time determined by [the contracting authority]. In case of deficiencies in compliance to the Terms, the supplier shall amend this according to a schedule and action plan, developed by the supplier, and to be approved by [the contracting authority]. The schedule and action plan are to be developed within the time period decided by [the contracting authority] and must be proportionate to the nature of the deficiencies and clearly describe how these are to be remedied within the established schedule. [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect if the supplier do not make amendments within the established period or do not remedy deficiencies within the established [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect in the case of severe deviations from the Terms. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The textiles industry is chemical intensive. Chemicals are used throughout the manufacturing process, from process chemicals for fibre production, bleaching, dyeing, etc. to chemicals added to the finished product to give it certain properties such as flame retardant treatment and impregnation.
The use of chemicals can affect the working environment and the environment during manufacture, but also the finished product might contain substances that are hazardous to the environment or health. The focus on chemical problems in the textile industry has culminated in adjustments to legislation (REACH) and a swedish suggestion on a product specific directive but also voluntary initiatives such as various ecolabelling schemes,
Working conditions in the textile industry have in some cases proven not to live up to the basic conditions set by ILO (International Labour Organisation) in its core conventions. Because of this, more organisations have begun to work with placing requirements on social conditions in procurements and agreements with suppliers.
The National Agency for Public Procurements Sustainable criteria for textiles have been developed by an expert group consisting of representatives from the industry, procurement officers, authorities and interest organisations. They contain proposals for procurement requirements that are intended to help procurement officers to place requirements for the procurement of environmentally adapted textiles.
Please also read the guide "Greener textiles in hospitals: Guide to green procurement in the healthcare sector" from the Nordic Council of Ministers.
These criteria are intended for the acquisation of textile by the textile and laundry services suppliers during the contract period ,encompassing:
- Workwear
Employee clothing with a special function (for example, dirt and oil repellent) including gloves. Also fire protection clothing
- Outer clothing
Water repellent/waterproof clothing for various outdoor weather; wind-cheaters, impregnated clothing, rainwear
- Clothes for indoor use
Clothes for indoor use, including cardigans, patient clothing
- Children's clothes
- Interior and decorative textiles
Tablecloths, carpets, curtains, pillows, sound absorbers, screens, blankets
- Bed textiles and towels
Mattress covers, bed linens, hygiene textiles